In 2016, the six-nation East African Community\u2014whose members are Kenya, Uganda, Rwanda, Burundi, Tanzania and South Sudan\u2014agreed to a ban on imported second-hand clothes and shoes<\/a>. The embargo was set to start in 2019, but it has sparked economic and political controversy that reflects the complicated relationship developing nations have with the United States and other exporters of second-hand clothing. More recently, under fire from both internal and external forces [meaning US second-hand clothing exporters], the EAC modified its proposal, substituting a phaseout for an outright ban.<\/p>\n

What\u2019s this all about? <\/strong><\/p>\n

In African nations, imported second-hand clothing is an economic driver and a big business<\/a>. Today in Uganda, for example, second-hand garments account for over 80% <\/a>of all clothing purchases. Kenya<\/a> receives an estimated $4.8 million in import duties annually from second-hand clothing. The huge second-hand clothing market also creates many jobs: clearing agents at ports, truck drivers, cart pullers, loaders, ironing and clothes repair workers, store clerks, and security guards, to name just a few.<\/p>\n

East Africa imported $151 million<\/a> of second-hand clothing last year, most of which was collected by charities and recyclers in the UK, Europe and North America. According to Oxfam, more than 70% of the clothes donated globally end up in Africa.\u00a0In 2015 Kenya for example imported about 18,000 tonnes<\/a> of clothing from Britain valued at around $42 million.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

These figures explode the widespread assumption in the US that the shoes, outgrown kids\u2019 clothes and no-longer fashionable dresses dropped off at charity shops are donated to needy people in African countries. In fact, according to one recent report<\/a>, the US generates 1.4 million tons of used clothing annually, of which only 20 percent is sold domestically in thrift stores. As a result, the US exports 800,000 tons of used clothing annually, a significant portion of which is resold in African markets. One of the biggest used-clothing resellers, is Mid-West Textile Company of Texas, which purchases clothes that were donated to non-profit organizations such as Goodwill Industries.<\/p>\n

The trouble with Mitumba<\/strong><\/p>\n

While the used-clothing trade creates jobs and government revenue in African countries, it engenders problems, as well.<\/p>\n

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